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When curating a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” says the family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble shop earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary honour.